The Last Phantom Spire

 

The Phantom Spires standing proudly in front of a beautiful sunset

The Tahoe region is beautiful...INCREDIBLY so by my standards. The more days I spend here, the more my impression of it molds into a deeper appreciation and love for everything it has to offer. If you only enjoy road side bouldering, lots of V's behind your objective climb(s), super concentrated areas, or you drive a lowered vehicle, this place will not be your favorite climbing destination. What might we find today? Where are we even going to start? But what about the 'project'...? I usually feel like there's too much to see, explore, attempt and finish around here to make lofty stone-set goals...

You often find something perfect when you're not interested or searching to find it. I believe this can be said about other areas in life outside of climbing as well.

 

Contemplating my life while enjoying the view

I returned to Tahoe from the Utah desert on May 10th and drove straight to Donner Summit to have a look at a new problem my good friend Joel Zerr had established a few weeks earlier. I could tell it was an amazing problem from the way he had explained it to me over the phone...I had to go check it out ASAP! I smiled ear to ear as I drove along Donner Lake's edge that day admiring the vibrant colors of the Sierras...I missed this place! What I saw as I approached the climb was even better than what Joel had described to me, it was perfect...I stood at the base of the problem for two solid hours staring it down from all sides and walking through the beta over and over again in my head. I couldn't believe this thing even existed; how the hell did this remain unclimbed till now? Every person that has ever parked at the Star Wall or School Rock has seen it!! I finally walked away that night, feeling more inspired and more excited about this climb than anything I had come across on my road trip.

'The Drawing of the Three', v11ish

I strategically rested and warmed up the following few days with hopes of returning to attempt 'The Drawing of the Three' the following week. It was a perfect day. Conditions were grand and my psyche was high...a little too high. I had to fight to keep myself calm all day since I wasn't slated to meet Joel and Jake until 4:00 PM. Having already been awake for over 9 hours, we were finally climbing!! I was nervous but excited. I knew what to do and I could tell this problem was my preferred style. It was an emotional ascent and the problem earned a spot on, and bumped a beautiful climb from the list of my top five favorite climbs. I was elated! I felt certain there was no way I could possibly climb a better problem or even one that was equally grand for a long time...maybe ever?

 

The Insanity Project...it's insane!

 

A day or two later, I greeted Jon and Dave as they returned from bouldering at an area called 'The Ghosts' and both of them immediately began spouting to me about this beautiful, mega highball project they thought would be possible; they both claimed it had my name on it. I went back with them to check it out the following week and, again, my mind was blown. THIS thing, is INSANE!!!

 

The Phantom Spires...

 

 

Raddest boulder ever?

The Phantom Spires tower out of an alpine wilderness in the Sierra Nevada Mountains on a scenic, stair-stepped-like hilside above highway 50. Warren Harding and John Ohrenschall first climbed the Upper and Lower spires in the mid 1950s before the modern age sport and trad routes that would come throughout the following fifty years. At the crown of the mountain and atop the final stair in the hill, a massive boulder stacks perfectly to the edge of the steep decline that plunges down the hillside toward the Upper Spire. The setting is serene. The view is spectacular. The rock is amazing. The line is unbelievable. The movement, and for that matter the height of the problem, is pure insanity...  

 

First Session trying the problem

 

 

 

Sunrise from camp above the Spires

 

 

Sunset from the same camp spot

I was hooked! My priorities shifted and it was all I could think about and all I wanted to climb on. Motivation was high; I even started training...

 

Hangin' with the proj and the Kona dog on a non-climbing, training day

Day 3: I fell from the crux move high on the problem. I looked up at the climb as I stumbled to my feet and noticed I had just broken a key hold and it was now significantly worse...'Damn' I thought...now it's even more challenging.

 

 

Jon and I hiked 10+ pads down to the proj between the two of us on four separate visits...even bouldering can be high commitment and can feel like a big objective!

 

Day 5: I knew I was going to do it some day...I HAD to! Over three weeks had passed since I first saw and tried the proj and my last two sessions on the problem were, so far, less productive than my first three. I broke through my slump and got to my high point that day, falling from the final crux move on one of my last attempts. Each day that I left the problem without success added to my excitement and psyche. I began to almost enjoy failing because that meant I got to keep thinking about it, wanting it and working toward it.

 

Day 6: Seth, Jon and I were amazed by the conditions. A nice breeze was swishing around us, the air temp was roughly 60 degrees and the sun blazed overhead in a cloudless sky. Had I let go of the overpowering desire to finish the problem enough to free my mind and allow my body to relax and just climb? My mental and physical limits teamed up with the weather that day and I found the head space I had been waiting for...I topped out the mountain that day, holding back tears of joy cause boys, as you know, don't cry.

 

Holding the crux foot release

 

I named the problem 'Crown Jewel' and it truly is a dream climb for me! By my standards, the journey to complete it composed the best experience that climbing can offer. I know I will find another project that produces similar feelings and requires as much commitment someday, but for now, I'm certain it's THE best problem I've ever seen anywhere. (My friend Jon Thompson was there with me all six days rolling the cameras...some day there will be a video to share).

 

The view from the top of the 'Crown Jewel'...felt like topping out the world!

It has been extra special for me to return 'home' from such a long stint on the road where I visited some of the most famed bouldering areas in the country to find two separate problems that topped the charts and surpassed (by my snobby standards) any rock I saw on my journey. To me it speaks loudly about the quality of the bouldering that can be found in the Tahoe region. It's been an honor to have been adopted into the Tahoe culture and gifted a spot among the true locals. I hope that Dave Hatchett's new Tahoe Bouldering Guidebook series will allow for everyone else in the climbing community to enjoy Tahoe as much as I do! 

Thanks for taking the time to read...I hope you're all enjoying some summer fun and I hope to see you out at the rocks!