Friday, January 25, 2013

Solo



I love climbing alone.  Days spent out with a crew of good folks and friends can be equally grand, but some of the things I enjoy most about this activity are found in solitude.

I'm currently sitting here in Las Cruces at 6:01 AM, about to complete my trek to the famous state park known as Hueco Tanks.  I'm looking forward to visiting and climbing with all my good friends that are also gathered down here to explore the history and take part in the future of bouldering in this magical place. 



 
Sub Human Agenda...SWEET problem!!!

Before I left Las Vegas, I paid one final visit to the Black Velvet Canyon to check out a problem that was established by my buddy Tom Moulin.  I captured a shot of this AMAZING problem for my iPhone productions library.  The rock, the setting, the holds and the moves are all perfect...all the ingredients needed for a batch of inspiration!

Check out the video link here:

https://vimeo.com/58157662

Monday, January 21, 2013

Success?

 
Doin' work at Sun City AKA 'Hillbilly Heaven' in Mesquite
 
For the past 18 months, my energy and attention have been spread pretty thin over a whole lot of ground.  The pursuit of 'success' seems to take center stage when it comes to both my work and my play.  Lately, for no real reason aside from boredom, I've been attempting to box up exactly what that word looks like to me...
 
Is it simply defined by the hard facts?  Send vs. no send?  Did I discover the next classic?  Am I as highly motivated as I 'should' be?  Am I pushing my personal limits?  Am I at least having fun?  Did I give it my all?  Or is success constructed from feelings and results bigger than the facts?  The questions can go on and on but in the end, the best part is more about embracing the journey than reaching the destination.
 
In 2011 I kept a log of every day that I climbed outdoors and in what location(s).  When the calendar flipped to 2012, I stopped that log, and instead began keeping track of every new (to me) climb I sent regardless of the grade.  It was fun to look back at the data I gathered at the end of the year to see where I went and mentally sort through some of the memories that piled up throughout the days I spent out there.  Here's some stats from my 2012 climbing year:
  • I sent 419 new (to me) boulder problems
  • 45 of those are considered to have a 'double digit' grade (results based on a personal opinion and still very subjective)
  • 48 of those were First Ascents
 
  • I also climbed 71 new routes (both trad and sport)
  • Two of them are considered to be graded 5.14
  • Four of them were First Ascents (3 of which I personally bolted)
 
There's my stat and grade rant for the year (some of you can and will appreciate that, Hahaha)... Looking at my results from a whole years worth of adventuring got me thinking, "Does this info prove that I am a successful climber?"  After some reflection I think I've decided that no matter how often I send, or how impressive my tick-list appears, or how hard I fail, I have WAY too much fun living it. As long as that remains the case, and I am able to continue refining 'myself' through my selfish activity, then success is inevitable.
 
 
Flannery Shay-Nemirow showing off the face of success!
 
 
Tufas at the 'Spanish Isles'
 
 
Sending my new route 'Designer Dog' - 5.13a-ish...first one I bolted in 2013!
 
 
Air lift rescue from the Kraft Boulders
 
 
Special thanks to Asana Climbing for making amazing products and putting them into my hands to use...the right gear undoubtedly helps produce more success! Check out their brand new website here: http://www.asanaclimbing.com/
 

Monday, January 14, 2013

Friends and Fun Times


Early Mornings


Morning coffee in the desert...Mmmm

I was introduced to rock climbing just over ten years ago. I was captivated before I even knew what I was doing, or what it was that made it so appealing to me. A chance to work through and solve a problem that simultaneously tested my mind and physical strength in the comforts of nature left me searching for and wanting more. As silly as it seems, I have always been drawn to how beautiful a rock could look to me. The shape or the feel of even one hold on a problem, or a seemingly improbable movement was enough to set my psyche soaring.

 
Click the link to see an iPhone productions clip of a beautiful problem with unique holds and great movement called 'The Book of Nightmares' (for quality footage of this problem, buy Western Gold!)

Ten years later, I've logged countless hours in pursuit of the next great climbing experience. It's taken me places I never would have otherwise visited, taught me what I actually need and value in life, and has introduced me to some fabulous friends along the way. Anyone who has been a climber for any amount of time knows that the friendships you grow through climbing can be, and often become priceless.


Asher, Flannery and Shannon conjuring up a breakfast concoction


Flan and Shannon at Yardhouse

Lisa Chulich crushing 'Bitch Slap 5'


Shannon, not even a little bit scared, on 'Fear of the Black Hat'

Fun crew in Gateway Canyon

 
Best group of gals to climb with...especially the little black one


...Only in Las Vegas would someone steel the phone from the booth


Flannery close to victory on 'Hungry, Hungry Hippos'


The scene outside the Black Velvet Canyon


Dave Graham getting REAL psyched on a possible (?) new project


The comforts of home


Portable Buddy heater helps you send...


Brief snow storm in Calico Basin at Red Rocks

Mike Kerzhner paid a visit to Vegas to give me a few free lessons on how to send 


Misty Murphy climbing at 'Hillbilly Heaven' outside Mesquite, NV

I've been lucky enough to enjoy the company of some fabulous friends since I've been here, deep in #desertlife. Good friends, great times, sweet adventuring, shared motivation, beautiful weather...nothing else could make this experience more enjoyable!
I'm SUPER thankful for each and every one of my friends! Cheers to all of the times and memories we've shared through the game of life. It's comforting to be part of such a positive community (for the most part) full of such big hearts and varied personalities...


Looking down on a beautiful route I just bolted called 'Designer Dog'


Sunset hiking out from the crag